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I've been working on a new lot of cufflinks for Lord Coconut. Here's how I've gone about hand making the findings.
I start by cutting two lengths of 4mm outer diameter 925 silver chenier into 15mm lengths. Next I drill a hole large enough to allow some 1.6mm square 925 silver wire to pass through it. It is important that this hole is large enough to let the wire rotate fully.
Then, using a charcoal block with holes burred out, I melt enough 925 silver wire to create balls that are just larger than the inner diameter of the cheneir.
Just like setting a stone I burr out one end of the chenier so that the ball of silver fits in nicely. Then I use a pusher to 'set' the ball and clean up with some emery.
I make a 'spring' from a 2mm wide strip of 0.3mm titanium sheet (I'm using the titanium cos I've got it lying round but I imagine that steel would work the same) by bending it around into a loop and securing the loose end by folding the other end over it.
Test that the spring fit snugly, but not too tightly into the chenier and file the sides down if necessary. Insert the spring into the chenier so that the widest part of the spring overlaps the hole. Insert a tapered piece of square wire to open up the spring slightly.
Insert a non tapered piece of wire to check that it fits. Swivel the chenier around the wire to test that it snaps into place at 90° intervals.
Finally set the other silver ball in the other end. A simple yet sophisticated mechanism!
Using a 1.6mm bit I drill hole into the cufflink where the mechanism will sit.
With a square needle file I open up the hole so the the square wire fits tightly. It is crucial that the wire is held tightly in these hole because if there is any movement in the wire the mechanism will not work properly.
Insert the square wire through one side of the cufflink, through the mechanism and out the other side. Cut the wire to length and squeeze the rivet closed using some parallel pliers.
Finito!
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Anonymous
February 4, 2012 at 11:03 PM
Hi Justin
I have been thinking about cufflinks recently and thought it was about time I told you that this post is SO helpful and amazing! Thank you for sharing how to make a cufflink fitting.
I'm going to try one, though now sure how successful I'll be!
Karen